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Wednesday, January 22, 2014


Nothing terribly exciting as I post this article, but here is Waimea Bay (now closed) at only 20 feet this morning.  Note the helicopter.  Keep in mind that a "Hawaii" 20 footer is like 40 feet elsewhere, for we only count HALF THE FACE.  We are expecting full-faces (the non-Hawaiian way) of 50-60 feet over the next 24 or so hours.  These kinds of waves come around every decade.  The Eddie Aikau big wave invitational at Waimea Bay is not being held, for although these waves will top 40 feet, winds make the surf messy and dangerous.

Wednesdays I generally make fun of the Geico camel, so the least I can show is camel surfing from the Makani Kai Nalu blog site.  Some of you might remember Big Wednesday, a 1978 film about surfing.  That final scene of that Big Wednesday Surf was, actually not from a California beach, but Sunset Beach on Oahu's North Shore.  It won the 1980 Japanese Academy Best Foreign Film Award.  I bet this is the movie that made surfing a cult thing in Japan.  You wouldn't believe how many surfers there are on their beaches today.
There are 150 recognized surfing beaches in that country.

Gary McNamara of Hawaii has been famous with his 78-footer, then followed with a 90-footer in Praia do Norte, Nazare, Portugal.  Then the first 100-footer a year ago at this same place:

Then two months ago, same location, a 100-footer surfed by Carlos Burle:

What made this ride so incredible was that on that same day, he saved fellow Brazilian surfer Maya Gabeira's (right) life, and said he was shaking as she was taken away in an ambulance.  He went on to catch the last wave of the day, above.


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