There were
Odysseus (
who Homer in Greek mythology said traveled 10 years, mostly at sea, trying to return from the Trojan War) and
Phileas Fogg (
that Jules Verne character played by David Niven in a 1956 film who traveled around the world), so our five-week trip to Japan was not particularly adventurous. While most of our journey was indeed wonderful, there were some disappointing moments. Yet, the best part of these long expeditions is returning home.
After my wife passed away 14 years ago, I traveled the world several times, partly to drop off her ashes at monumental sites. There were
MUGA 2013 (
by click on that, you can access every day of my 51-day global adventure) and
GAWA 2015 that were exceptional.
But since early in 2019, there has been a travel partner, who makes the experience different and better. I generally keep her out of this blog by request, but in my advancing years, I need all the help I can get, plus there are added benefits.
Our combined cruise/train/air odyssey upgrades the experience. We have a global journey planned for the spring of next year, but more on that in the future.
We were on the
Diamond Princess late in 2019, and that ship a couple of months later pretty much internationalized Covid-19, for 712 of the 3711 on the ship became infected with this virus. Fourteen died, all of them elderly, a mortality rate of 2%. For the record, the world is just about at 700 million cases, with 7 million deaths, a mortality rate of 1%. A century ago, the
Spanish Flu had perhaps 500 million cases, with up to 50 million deaths, a mortality rate of 10%. More so, 500 million was around 33% of the world population at that time. 700 million cases for the current pandemic is less than 10% the global population.
This time, no virus problems. Nine days around Japan, departing Yokohama on October 31 for Aomori. There was a stop in Busan, and here was our assessment of the cruise.
- We did not go on any tour, but we've seen a lot of Japan, and don't particularly like stops at castles, temples and shrines.
Should say that we were limited to 15 drinks/person/day, and we drank and ate too much. This attitude continued for the rest of our trip. Not good, but heck, why not.
- We were traveling with two friends, and two additional acquaintances, which enhanced the enjoyment.
So thus, so far, so good. We returned to the Sheraton Yokohama Bay and were somewhat concerned about our upcoming three 7-day Japan Rail Passes because the information we got was that we needed to make all reservations using a train station kiosk or by using your computer. Turned out that the human standing in line process was still available, so we had no problems.
Our first Shinkansen was to Sendai. All fine, except not much of any Fall color. We even skipped our traditional wagyu beef meal here.
The next stop was to Sapporo, and this was particularly disappointing, for the date we got there is the date all the predictions showed that Fall Colors were supposed to be at peak.
Essentially, nothing.
- What happened, I think, was that global warming delayed the onset of leaf color, and storms blew off the leaves before the color change occurred.
- Plus it was cold with a few snow flurries, so we pretty much did very little.
We hate early train trips for they affect our sleep routine. To get from Sapporo to Tokyo takes a long time. First a slower train, Hokuto to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto for 4 hours, then a short wait, with a 3.5 hour bullet train to Tokyo.
- They are undergoing a physical upgrade, and the Club Lounge was a temporary one, and junk. The food was mediocre, which should have been good for weight loss, yet upsetting.
- Like Heaven.
- But at a high cost, for we had to pay an extra few hundred bucks/night to get into the Club Level.
- Why? To experience Heaven.
- After two days, not worth the added expense.
- This was our final stay here.
So far, no real evidence of Fall Colors. Next, the
Marriott Associa at Nagoya Station. The previous time we stayed there, the Club Lounge was fabulous. Now, you need to stay at Marriott's 100 times/year to go there. There still was another Executive Lounge, but only very average. Our final stay here.
Enjoyed our one night stay at the
Sheraton Grand Hiroshima, plus for the first time saw real Fall Colors at Shukkeien botanical park. The usual walk through the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park.
The Sheraton Grand Kagoshima was excellent. And what a view of Sakurajima. Nice pickup at the Kagoshima-Chuo Station and fine Club Lounge. The price was reasonable. Next time we'll spend at least a couple of nights to tour the city and environs.
The Sheraton Grand Ocean Resort in Miyajima was a good stop, although the only walk we made was to Florante Miyazaki. We had maybe the best dinner we had on this trip in Japan, with Miyazaki wagyu beef, Miyazaki caviar and Miyazaki mango.
Then on to the new
Ritz Carlton Fukuoka, where we negotiated to stay at their Club Level. Good, but a bit too pricy. Caught the subway to Ohori Park, essentially a lake you walk around. Was a bit chilly. Was met by my Blue-Bar Pigeon.
I haven't said much about our Shinkansen and connecting train rides. We usually showed up far too early so as not to miss any. One thing about Japan, they know how to do transportation. Every train was on time. If there were any mistakes, they were ours. The airports are among the best in the world, and their train stations are monumental. The Sakura Shinkansen to Osaka from Fukuoka featured stuff we confiscated from the FRC Club Lounge.
We absolutely loved the
Osaka Marriott Miyako. When we made the reservation, it was high up on the tallest building in Japan. When we moved in, it was #2 to a Mori structure in Tokyo. We also got free tickets to experience Harukas 300 (
the number represents meters) on the 60th floor, a viewing site and museum. We tried to make reservations for April 2025 for the Osaka World Expo, but we need to do this eleven months before the day of the intended stay. At a little more than half the price of the Tokyo Westin, and one-third of the Ritz Carlton Tokyo, combined with their outstanding Club Lounge, this could well be our favorite hotel today.
Next, the
Kyoto Westin Miyako, which also was nice and comfortable. Walked through Gion and Yasaka Shrine.
Finally, our last stop, the
Nara JW Marriott. Our lengthy stroll through Nara Park might have been the viewing highlight of the entire trip. The Fall Colors were at peak. The hotel was not cheap, but worth it. There is another Marriott hotel here, the Fairfield.
This could have been our final Japan Rail Pass ticket, for the price recently jumped by 70%. It has been a good ride. But train trips are always a bit hectic and stressful, plus on this rail pass you are always checking in and out of hotels. In the past, you had a JRP card. Today, it is a ticket that is easy to lose. Cruises might make more sense.
We saw Mount Fuji from various directions. Every day when we were in Tokyo. Here is just one photo.
The biggest downer is that we gained weight. I recall losing 2 pounds after 53 days on the Seabourne Explorer. I gained 7 pounds. How do I feel. A bit chubby here and there. Otherwise I have some confidence that I should lose most of that before our spring global adventure.
How well have we done with our 15 Craigside pandemic diet to start losing weight? We start tomorrow, for we had lunch at Black Angus of American steak, baked potato with all the dressings and a glass of Conundrum Red.
Then we went to Marukai for some sashimi and other necessities.
Ending at Roast Duck Kitchen for Chinese duck and pork to have for dinner, perhaps with some of the expensive whisky we brought back from Japan.
So how was our extravagant trip to Japan? Let's start with the weather, which was great. While it was coolish on Hokkaido and other parts of Japan, we saw mostly blue skies and once, for a few seconds, felt a very slight drizzle. Nearly perfect for walking. No typhoons
(I was on a train once in one of these in the past) and no earthquakes (
read about about the 7.1 Magnitude I experienced in Tokyo)
When you add warm toilet seats, no danger of a mugging, the advantageous 150 yen to the U.S. dollar exchange rate and, finally, a lot of yellow, orange and red foliage, this was indeed an awesome experience. Our first stop on our spring around the world odyssey will be five days in Tokyo.
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One key point was that he went against popular American opinion, and maintained the role of Emperor Hirohito for a more peaceful and successful occupation, and for the overall stability of Japan. Many felt that Hirohito was complicit with leaders like General Hideki Tojo, and should have been executed.
The MacArthur Bowl awarded to the top college football team? Named after him, and the 25-pound trophy is shaped like a football stadium, featuring his quote: There is no substitute for victory.
