I was all set to report on a variety of matters today, but yesterday, after walking 18 holes at Ala Wai, I happened to drop by Fujioka's at Market City, leading to another twist in my Hibiki adventures. I'm letting you now that it was a good thing I kept the first outlet secret, which sold Hibiki Harmony for $76, for this second place has it with no restrictions, at $68. So, I thought further details on this Suntory blend was worthy of a Friday posting. I'll also include some info about Johnnie Walker and Dewar's White Label. Note, not Johnny Walker.
Hibiki is the most popular Japanese blended whisky, created by Suntory only in 1989 to commemorate their 90th anniversary. Scotch in Scotland began in 1495. There are only two basic types of Scotch, both produced from a single distillery, but one which only uses malted barley, with the other a mix of grains. Blended whiskies combine those two in various ways.
My first scotch was Johnny Walker Black Label. In 2016, 224 million 700 ml bottles were sold worldwide. I remember the details at my initiation. I had just graduated from college, moved to the Big Island to work in the sugar industry, and the first community party I attended, went to get a drink. I was asked what I wanted. I could see people in the vicinity wondering what this young alien would order. I vaguely remembered that Johnny Walker Black Label was the prestige bottle seen on tables at Chinese banquets when I was growing up. So I confidently asked for Johnny Walker Black on rocks. There seemed to be awe in the eyes of those watching. I almost died at the first sip, but maintained sufficient poise to appear in control. I then just had to continue with scotch...for the rest of my life. It is now my favorite, followed by red wine, gin and cognac.
Someday I'll post on my Johnnie Walkers, for I have more than a dozen different kinds. But, anyway, John Walker was born in 1805, managed a grocery store at the age of 15. Tax laws were relaxed in Scotland in 1857 so he began blending malt and malt whiskies to meet specific customer requirements. He then added his name, Walker's Kilmarnock Whisky. He died at the age of 52, but his son, Alexander, and grandson Alex II, took advantage of new laws legalizing blending (the original blends were all illegal) whiskies in 1860. In 1893 they purchased Cardhu distillery, leading to Johnnie Walker Red (10-year) and Black Labels (12-years).
The Striding Man came in 1909, by cartoonist Tom Browne. Their original Old Highland was renamed Johnnie Walker White Label, which was dropped during World War I.
The White Label you see today was created by John Dewar in 1899, and is their top selling brand. They pioneered aging in oak casks. Dewar was acquired by Guinness in 1986 and sold to Bacardi the following year. White Label 10-years at $23, might be the best buy today. It is very drinkable, whereas the Johnny Walker Red Label, now without age, is raw, but costs $20. This was the favorite drink of Winston Churchill, which he drank with water all day.
Interesting that Johnnie Walker was also bought out by Guinness in 1986, merging with Grand Metropolitan to form Diageo in 1997. For the record:
- Black Label: 12 years, and peaty
- Double Black Label: came in 2011 and is even peatier
- Green Label: 1997, 15-year old blended malt
- Gold Label: blend of over 15 single malts, once 18-year old, but now, no age
- Platinum Label: 18-year, and now known as Johnnie Walker Aged 18 Years, meaning there is no such thing as Platinum being sold anymore (buy it if you can find it)
- Blue Label: their premium blend with no age statement, and ranges from $174 to $450 depending on a variety of factors, and was the favorite with President Richard Nixon, but, arghh, with ginger ale
- Swing: in a bottle that swings, and is rather harsh
So, back to Hibiki, here is another fact that should surprise you. Sure, it is owned by Suntory, but with headquarters in Chicago. You might know that James Beam began selling bourbon in 1795. In 2014, the company was purchased by Suntory Holdings for $16 billion, and created Beam Suntory, and is now the official spirits and partner of the Chicago Cubs and Wrigley Field. Beam Suntory also owns Laphroaig, Old Grand-Dad, Knob Creek, Old Crow, Bowmore, Ardmore, Teacher's, Canadian ClubSauza, Courvoisier, Wolfschmidt, and Gilbey's. The company is the third largest producer of distilled beverages, behind Diageo and Pernod Ricard.
Awards? Too many to count, but in the beginning:
2009
International Spirits Challenge
| Hibiki 17 Years Old | Gold | Hakushu 18 Years Old | Gold |
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San Francisco World Spirits Competition
| Yamazaki 18 Years Old | Double Gold | Yamazaki 12 Years Old | Double Gold |
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2008
International Spirits Challenge
| Hibiki 30 Years Old | Trophy |
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World Whiskies Awards
| Hibiki 30 Years Old | World's Best Blended Whisky |
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2007
International Spirits Challenge
| Hibiki 30 Years Old | Trophy |
|---|
World Whiskies Awards
| Hibiki 30 Years Old | World's Best Blended Whisky |
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2006
International Spirits Challenge
| Hibiki 30 Years Old | Trophy | Hakushu 18 Years Old | Gold |
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2004
International Spirits Challenge
| Hibiki 30 Years Old | Trophy |
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2003
International Spirits Challenge
| Yamazaki 12 Years Old | Gold |
|---|
And just last year:
2018
International Spirits Challenge
| Hibiki 21 Years Old | Trophy | Hakushu 25 Years Old | Trophy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Yamazaki 12 Years Old | Gold Award | Yamazaki 18 Years Old | Gold Award |
| Hibiki 35 Years Old | Gold Award |
World Whiskies Awards
| Hakushu 25 Years Old | World's Best Single Malt Whisky |
|---|
Hibiki means resonance in Japanese, and the blend resonates with the subleties of natured infused by the 24 seasons of Japan's traditional calendar and reflected in the 24 facets of the bottle design. All Hibikis combine the products of their distilleries in Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita, creating a sense of WA, a oneness which unveils a full orchestra of flavors and aroma. From the box:
- Color: amber
- Nose: rose, lychee, hint of rosemary, mature woodiness, sandalwood
- Palate: honeylike sweetness, candied orange peel, white chocolate
- Finish: subtle, tender long finish, with a hint of Mizunara (Japanese oak)
So I took a quick taste test with all those characteristics in mind:
Lychee, woodiness, amber....? The best I could do was that they all smelled about the same, with Hakushu 12 having the harshest taste, Hibiki 12 the best body and Toki the smoothest. The cheapest, Toki, won my taste test!
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Hurricane Erick has lost strength, and as I look outside from where I am sitting composing this article, 200 miles to the southwest is this tropical storm:
Hurricane Flossie is weakening, and now appears to be projected to swing by just north of where I live:
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