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Thursday, February 21, 2019

CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD

We are here in France because of Chateau Lafite Rothschild (CLR), on the bucket list of our Elvis.  Here with his grandchildren.    You can read his Facebook page to keep up with our activities.

 I should mention his colleague from Hilo is an Optical Engineer from the Gemini Observatory on the top of Mauna Kea.  There are two 26.6-foot telescopes, providing almost complete coverage of both the northern and southern skies.  He is also our driver who is young enough to know how to use tracking aps.  Speaks French.

But back to CLR, they sell expensive wines.  Three bottles of their 1869 sold for $230,000 EACH in 2010.  Their 2017, which won't be available until 2020, seems anywhere from $300 to $1919 a bottle.  However, Wine-Searcher lists:
  • 1950 half a bottle for $45
  • 1972 (soiled) whole bottle for $158
  • 1989 half a bottle for $399
  • 2015 bottle for $329 (Switzerland)
  • 2015 bottle for $717 (Hong Kong)
  • 2016 bottle (from $373 in Switzerland to $3799 in London)
2015 was an average year for the Left Bank, but better than 2017.  2016 had a 97 Wine Spectator rating.  2010 was 99, but 2013 an 84.  CLR is on the left bank.
CLR is in the wine-producing village of Pauillac in the Medoc region  The estate was the property of Gombaud de Lafite in 1234.  It was the Segur family which bought out Chateau Lafite in the 16th century, and they planted the majority of the vineyard.  The family ownership ended by the execution of their line after the French Revolution, leading to the estate becoming public property.  In 1797 Dutch merchants bought the vineyard, until Baron James Mayer Rothschild purchased the lands in 1868.

They've had serious problems over time, such as coping with post-phylloxera vines and two world wars.  During WW2, it was occupied by the German army, which plundered their cellars.

In 1985 a new record was set in a Christie's auction of $156,000 for a bottle of 1787 thought to be owned by Thomas Jefferson, who visited them and was a lifelong customer.  That record was broken in 2010 at a Sotheby's auction in Hong Kong:  those three bottles mentioned above,for $700,000.  More problems, as more than half of Chateau Lafite Rothschild bottles are fake Chateaux Lafite Rothschild in China.

Today, their 107 hectares with vines about 40 years of age produce around 35,000 cases annually of 80-95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5-20% Merlot and 3% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.  Their 1961 was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Their Pauillac shows qualities of cedar, cassis, tobacco, truffle, lead pencil and spice, along with a freshness and purity of dark fruits, and has remarkable staying powers.  

They have vines a hundred years old, and nothing less than 20 years are used.  Most use organic fertilizers.  The ripest grapes are not the goal of harvest.  A blend of maturity is considered to provide their unique texture, freshness, aromatic complexities and elegant sensations.



The 1960's to 70's was a dismal period, with low prices and should be avoided.  Only in1981 did quality improve, especially after 1996.  The best year might have been 2003, although 2009, 2010 and 2016 are close.

Starting in 2008, China entered the picture and made Chateau Lafite Rothschild the most collectible Bordeaux.  It is a status symbol today for Chinese millionaires.  

How did this happen?  Maybe marketing, as they sponsored the top rated Chinese soap opera on TV, whose characters drank this wine.

But what goes up can come down, and their value plummeted after 2011, as much as 50%, but began recovering in 2013.  Around this time counterfeit measures were taken with a numbered code.

They have third growth as a second wine labeled Carruades de Lafite.  Plus there is a third wine sold as an AOC Pauillac.  Recent Pauillac received ratings between 96 and 99, with their Carruades around 90.

When to drink?  Best to wait until at least the age of 15.  Decant for an average of 3-6 hours.  Serve at 60 F.  Said to be best with meats and grilled dishes, but also rich fish courses and pasta.  Supposedly, the average price of all their bottles is around $900.

They once produced White Bordeaux as Vin de Chateau Lafite, mostly using Semillon and a small amount of Sauvignon Blanc.  But that was more than half a century ago.

They have invested in Chilean and Argentinian vineyards.  Now, even Shandong Province in China with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Ancient species of wild cows live and graze on their property, for the meat.  Click on THIS for additional information.

Our day began with a two-hour visit to La Cite du Vin, the world's largest wine museum,  opening in 2016.  Impressive, must have cost a hundred million dollars.  The high tech was overwhelming, for you can interview experts virtually, dine with historic figures electronically and watch a film featuring a dozen historical figures discussion wines.


I can't do justice writing about this attraction.  Come.  You then go up to the 8th floor and have a free glass of wine.  I picked a champagne:


  Lunch was across the street:


Thomas then drove us to Chateau Lafite Rothschild, about an hour away.  We must have crossed 50 roundabouts today.  He didn't seem to mind, but my experience in DC was something I long forgot.


We got a private tour arranged by Elvis.  Nicola, staff sommelier showed up the usual process, and we ended up, to my surprise, drinking just about the whole bottle of 2004 Chateau Lafite Rothschild:


Our day ended with dinner at the casino:


What a day.  I should use a lot more superlatives, but I'm falling asleep, for tomorrow we taste on the Right Bank for Merlot-dominated Bordeaux.

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