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Tuesday, September 22, 2009

THAILAND: LAND OF THE NICE


Human habitation in Thailand can be traced back 600,00 years. Today, with a population of 65 million, it is about the physical size of France and somewhat smaller than Texas. Racial harmony has characterized this country even till today, although more recently, the government has shifted from democracy to military dictatorship, back and forth, all watched over by the King. Yet, the people are all really nice on a personal level. Ninety five percent are Buddhist, but there are two million Muslims, mostly Sunni. Yes, they have caused problems.


Since 1792 there have been nine kings, all named Rama. The one you must know is Rama IV, King Mongkut, played by Yul Brynner (because Rex Harrison was busy) in Rogers and Hammerstein’s The King and I, both on broadway (1951) and in the movie (1956). Mongkut’s son, Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the 40th ruler of Siam, abolished slavery (guess that Uncle Tom’s Cabin play produced by Anna Leonowens—Deborah Kerr—at around the time of the American Civil War, must have had an important influence on Chulalongkorn). He ruled for 42 years, and deftly played off the French and British to remain largely independent.

Rama IX King Bhumibol Adulyadej, ruler since 1946, 53 years as sovereign, is now 81 and appears to be very ill. The current Queen is Sirikit and Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn is destined to become Rama X.


This country was called Siam (land of the white elephant) by the Portuguese in 1511, but a transition began to be made in 1939 to Thailand (land of the free) as a nationalistic gesture, excluding the Chinese. Thailand became official in 1949.


Sixty years later, Bangkok is about the sprawlingest metropolis you can find. However, the mass transit system has helped to alleviate total gridlock. Fifteen years ago, it took me two hours on a tuk-tuk (powered ricksaw) to travel two miles, where I showed up an hour and a half late for a meeting with an important government official…and he rather blithely, just invited me to join him for lunch. However, you wonder how this can happen, but there are three metro/train systems, and they are all totally independent. Sort of like the JR and Tokyo subway rivalry, except at least they share many similar stations. Not necessarily so for Bangkok. But an all day pass on the BST is a little more than $3, and the trains are really air-conditioned, clean, efficient and a terrific bargain. The taxis are also cost-effective...and the traffic, it turns out, can still be a problem, especially if it rains a lot.


By the way, you can still have three (make that five) suits tailored, with a couple of shirts and ties tossed in…for all of $150. The reality is that you'll end up paying more for a better tailor with higher quality material. Oh, watch out trying to cross busy intersections. There is no totally safe strategy. I would recommend a taxi, for it only costs a couple of bucks (Tokyo’s equivalent would cost ten times more) to go a rather long way. Yet, I still walk, for it is hot, sweaty, and I’ve gained enough weight over the past month that I need that exercise. You would think that living would take priority, but, for some reason, it doesn't.


Let me close for now, but posting this blog, I note that there is a violent thunderstorm outside, so I guess I will have to remain in the Westin for Kissho, rather than cross the street (there is an overpass, because two separate mass transit stations are just outside this hotel) to Rossini’s in the Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit, a terrific Italian restaurant I just love. There is a Kissho at the shopping complex next to the Tokyo Westin, where I will stay in a week. I had my one Thai meal today for lunch, and it did have a tinge of fermented fish sauce that I hate, for it is endemic to all traditional Thai cuisine.

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The Dow Jones Industrials jumped 51 to 9830, while world markets were also mostly up. Will the DJIs soon hit 10,000, where it was almost a year ago? Gold leaped $13/toz, now up to $1018, while oil is at $71/barrel.

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There are two disturbances south of Baha, but they don't appear to be threats. Tropical cyclones appear to be at a 30 year low. This is the first time in a long time during the peak period that there has been no tropical cyclone anywhere in the northern hemisphere for the second straight day, and this condition should continue for the next few days. The only dark spot on the map is significant rain projected for Vietnam over the next five days...and I leave for Ho Chi Minh City (formerly known as Saigon) tomorrow. Ten inches are expected. By the way, did you know that recently, the Atlanta area has been just about the the rainiest spot on the globe, even wetter than Mr. Waialeale on Kauai? Nearly 20 inches have fallen over the past three days and more is expected today.

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